Friday, March 27, 2009

BJ Day 2

Headed out really late after watching NBA match between Celtics an Magic last night, had a bit of difficulty finding 798 art district, it's a huge place, but a really well-kept secret. Even Rui who wasn't into the artsy stuff liked it enough to say why not stay on and screw the Da Dong Roasted Duck (really famous Peking duck restaurant, hundreds of awards and signatures hanging on the walls, including a vote of confidence by our very own Nathan).

798 was a huge industrial areas where all the state-owned factories used to be, then someone had the bright idea to convert them to art galleries and shops. Asking for directions at the metro station, I was happy to hear the stationmaster inquire about 798, then mumbling to herself, "Art stuff huh... Maybe I'll go check it out soon..." Passing it along is cool, especially to people with no pretensions.

The art galleries there humbled me. In Singapore, because our place is so small, artists seldom think big. Big, in terms of grand projects, on massive scales. Over here you can't find petite, delicate art, every piece is towering and majestic. And the best thing? It's all free. Free admission, free to take pictures, free to talk. Which isn't a problem seeing how deserted the place is. I'm so jealous of China, with so much land it doesn't cost more to rent the space than the art itself. I'm glad that in post-reform China, at least the art is still somewhat Communist. In that you get this sense from 798 that art is a public commodity to be enjoyed by everybody. Giant sculptures line the place, and people aren't bothered that it's dirty, dusty, and stepped all over by people. They still valiantly leave them out on the sidewalks, knowing that by tomorrow it'll probably have treadmarks from a reckless cyclist. For people not into art stuff, there are also things to buy in small shops.

We were an hour late for Da Dong, which is so hot weekends are IMPOSSIBLE, and the latest reservation has to be seated by 630, or you start queueing outside like everyone else. I counted nearly 100 people waiting for a table outside, and the food is worth queueing for. The duck skin melts in your mouth, they have Glenlivet for 50rmb a shot, which isn't too much to pay when you're in China. The foie gras fried rice was awesome, and so was their sweet&sour fish and some unidentified prawns. We're gonna try dog meat soon though, hope it tops the duck.



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